Archive for February, 2008

경북공 Gyeongbuk Palace

Monday, February 25th, 2008

Gyeongbuk Palace is very close to the museum.  It’s very big, and consists of several buildings and structures.  It’s a fairly quick tour.  If you can peek into the windows, almost all the rooms are empty.  Standout structures are the throne, pond, dining hall, and main entrance.  The dining hall is elevated and in front of the pond.  The throne is big, and mostly used for ceremony.  In front of the throne is the quadrangle.  There are small stone posts where military officers/soldiers, civil servants are divided based on rank.  There are lots of tourists wandering around.  Many are from China.  Our guide points out the architectural intricacies that is not apparent for those who are not in to architecture.  The roof’s edges for example has circles of the zodiac.  Outside the palace, there’s a parade of men in palace costumes marching.  Basically, the changing of the guards.  There are even guards by the palace entrance.  You can clearly see their fake beards.  Hhehehehe…  In front of the entrance is another structure of that is being renovated.  Not sure what it is, even Irene somehow couldn’t explain.

Well, it was a quick tour.  Basically you walk around, have shots, and go.  Maybe the city government could do something more.  With that over, we transition to what tour guides also do as part of their job.

National Folk Museum

Saturday, February 23rd, 2008

Morning comes, and breakfast is at the hotel’s ground floor.  This would be the last meal we have involving kimchi.  The food in this hotel is okay, I’d rate it second after Daemyung Resort in Gyeongju.  I liked the kimchi fried rice (kimchi bokkeumbap), which is the standout from my meal.  Beware, it is spicy.  James tries the coffee any chance he gets during breakfast in all our stays.  Oh, and we got our order of kim (or nori aka dried seaweed).  This kim is reputedly homemade and nowhere as oily as some of the sacheted stuff we had.  It cost quite an amount, but we will enjoy it after we go back home.
Our tourmate, Ryneth mentions about Dongdaemun and describes about it since she went there with her bf last night.  She’s not satisfied with some of the itinerary I think.  Anyway, slight grumblings, although overall, James and I liked our experience.  Some of us have a chance to review the city map provided by the hotel.  Andrew Ong, asks if the itinerary can be changed or detoured so that after the Gyeongbuk Palace, we go to an oceanarium.  Irene explains it’s not possible because the oceanarium is located somewhat far and is south of the Han River (漢江)﹐ taking a detour would not give us much time to get to the airport.  So, everybody sticks to the original itinerary designed by Imelda and Irene.
Myeongdong by day, certainly looks and feels different from nighttime.  Aside from the obvious, the ambience is different.  Our first itinerary of the day, the rotunda of Seoul City Hall plaza.  There is one perfect photo point allowed.  The plaza is conveniently located where you can view all three mountains that surround Seoul.  Just a few meters from where were having our photos taken, there’s an old guy with carrying signs and banners protesting something.  We were wondering what he was protesting about.  Irene explains something about he wants down with the government or something.  Anyway, James takes a photo of the guy and we are on our way.

Img_0597_1 
Next itinerary, the National Folk Museum.  while our guide buys tickets for everyone to go inside, there’s a circle of Chinese Zodiac as guardians guarding a tri-partitioned Taegukgi circle.  Another excellent photopoint.
Anyway, everybody goes inside the museum.  Since time is rather of the essence, I think Irene figured how long it will take to look around inside the museum in an hour or two of touring.  The museum is divided into 3 aspects.  The first is about ancient Korean life.  From the time when Koreans lived in strawhuts to when they have kings.  There’s lots of interesting and intricately detailed dioramas.  Included in the dioramas is how Koreans prepared their kimchi. 

Img_0607 There’s also displays how the royalties of the three kingdoms are dressed.  There’s even a display of the different kimchis available.  It’s more than just the spiced pickled cabbage everyone is familiar with. 

Img_0617 Another section is the life and death cycle of Koreans.  Korean babies who reach one year of age, are given various stuff  which are supposed to give you an idea of what they will be.  Some of the stuffs I saw include money, scissors, and thread.  Nowadays, the computer mouse is also included.  Maybe pro-gamer?
Also, becoming 60 is a milestone in the old days.  Remember, life expectancy used to be short due to disease and wars.  Also 60 represents completion of living through all the various permutations of the Chinese Zodiac.  So, if one becomes 60, theres a very big festivity going on.  Lots of food stacked.  Some of them are fruits stacked in a way that you have to wonder how they could do it.  Some displays have alarms that go off if you plan to touch them.  We kept tripping them to the annoyance of a couple nearby local tourists.  Sorry!
There’s lots of text on every scene or specimen but there’s no way you can read all of them.  We finish all three rooms, and just outside the room is a souvenir shop.  It’s got souvenirs and even books.  The Korean books I saw are designed to be read left to right, top to bottom like English, though I imagine you can also do the Chinese way of top to bottom, right to left.  There’s another exhibit not part of the itinerary.  While everyone is still in the souvenir shop or taking a leak, Ryneth and I go sneak to the special exhibit.  I can’t recall what it was about, but it was worth it.  It’s too bad  that we only had one camera brought along and James was holding it.
Time’s up, and it’s time to move to the next, Gyeongbuk Palace…

A Night in Seoul

Monday, February 11th, 2008

At the appointed time, we come out at 6pm at the hotel lobby.  Ryneth, Wilson’s family, Ong family and Imelda, our Philippine liaison to Korea, come down the lobby to explore a piece of Seoul on our own.  First, since the day being Easter Sunday, we go to Myeongdong Cathedral which is just across the street.  It is a one way street.  There’s a guy on chair singing with a donate box in hand.  Apparently, begging is not allowed, so the guy must entertain to get "paid."  We proceed to the cathedral.  It is under renovation with a very very big tarp with the image of the church on it.  The entrance is at the side.  We enter, and find it is a tad crowded.  As expected, most of the men wore suits, and the women are in black jacket and skirt, white shirt, and with white transparent veil.  James and I would be willing to stay around to see how the mass goes, but because the mass is spoken in Korean, everybody in the group decided to go out.

So, we start exploring around Myeongdong.  Myeongdong is the most expensive high-class place in Seoul.  Think Glorietta, Greenbelt, SM MoA, Megamall and you get the idea.  But instead of malls, you have streets, alleys, open air shops, street vendors.  It’s a mix of department stores; first class shops for clothes and electronics; "bargain" stores;  street vendors selling cheap (cheap is relative) stuffs, pirated movies (very expensive pirated stuff I must say, a movie costs like 5,000 Won); classier restaurants; fastfood; streetfood stalls; tentbars (pajongmacha 파종마차).

Lots of people walking around, especially couples doing lovey-dovey.  Their affection is more outwardly expressive here compared to people in ‘Pinas.  We enter one of the shops selling clothes.  Business seems brisk as customers rummage around wrinkled clothes.  I guess they are bargains.  Some in our group both stuffs.  We held off buying anything.  And proving that even ripping off names in Korea is not sacred, we saw a clothes shop with a name that rhymes with Tommy Hilfiger.  Even the logo pretty much matches.  It’s located in the back alleys.

Food is varied in Myeongdong.  Besides, traditional Korean foods, there’s more Western fare and fastfood like Burger King and Krispy Kreme.  These restos are packed!  There’s supposed to be a McDonald’s in Korea, but we never spotted one during our stay.  Even the streetfoods are nothing to sneeze at.  Unlike street foods in ‘Pinas where the servings are small, more like light snacks of indulgence,  street food in Korea run from that and to the more filling.  Let’s see… street foods we spotted: roasted chestnuts, crabsticks, crabs, plain sausage, sausage with potato sticks in batter, sausage wrapped in kim (dried seaweed wrapper), various sausage permutation, roasted squid, tteokbukgi (elongated rice cakes in gochujang with what ever else you wish to mix), chicken skewers (they looked more like the pork barbecue skewers in ‘Pinas).  Those are just on the top of my head.  The back alleys have the more established food stalls on one side, and tent bars on the other.  Tent bars or pajongmacha are basically tented restos.  The tents are transparent, and people dining inside can be kept relatively warm.  People will eat anywhere they choose, even in pajongmachas.

Walking further we see SOGO (?) department store across the street.  It is crossable by taking an underpass.  The underpass also has different small businesses inside.  Department stores of course have the more pricey stuff.  but most of those stuffs are clothes and watches.  Since we’re not really interested with the stuffs the others are looking, James and I ventured a bit on our own.  The jeans must cost P 3,800 when converted to local currency.  Ouch.  The interesting stuf I saw are shirts of Tetsuwan Atom aka Astroboy.  Now that I think of it, I think I shoulda bought at least one of the shirts.  We held off buying anyway.  Wilson bought a leather-type jacket which is on a special sale.  Thankfully, the saleslady they were talking to can speak some passable English.

We proceed back all the way to Seoul Royal Hotel.  We looked at Krispy Kreme again.  Everybody thought, hey, we haven’t tasted that, let’s buy a dozen and have 1 donut each.  Krispy Kreme is two-storeys high.  A fairly long queue we  stood in line, too.  While waiting we looked at what’s on offer.  We even calculated the best buy and even concluded the special offer is cheaper than the price sold in ‘Pinas.  The only Krispy Kreme donut worth a dam is the original glazed donut, and that’s what we ate.  Andrew, the head of the Ong family, bought a pack of sliced roast dried squid.  I normally hate dried or canned seafood.  Heck, I find tuyo, so god-awfully pukingly bad.  But the squid was surprisingly good.  The same goes for that small dried fish I sampled somewhere, I can’t recall (I think it was Incheon).

After the night snack, we detoured to 7-Eleven which is also across the hotel and bought our necessities.  We return to the hotel, just in time to find Irene also back from wherever she went, which is actually from the Cathedral.  She had a nap after everyone checked in and attended the last mass.  Ryneth’s bf who happens to be on a different tour group, decides to go out again.  As for everyone else, we retired back to our room and prepare for our final day in Korea.

蔘鷄湯 or 삼계탕

Sunday, February 3rd, 2008

We reach Seoul in about an hour.  Along the way, the bus was playing the movie Married to the Mafia.  Our guide is concerned for the 2 kids in our group who might find the movie too much. Anyway, this would be our final night in Korea.  There are tall buildings but on average, you will find more scrapers in Makati.  Along the way, we pass by Gyeongbokgung palace (hard to see due to walls), the statue of famed Admiral Yee Sun Shin, and his Turtleship.  Traffic seems like medium, which is good since that means we’re moving no matter what.  Our bus was stopped by a gyeongchalgwan (policeman), he asked our guide what is our business here but did not inspect further.  We also go around Seoul’s city hall.

Our dinner is early.  I think we stopped at the restaurant at around 5pm.  Would have preferred to eat later, but, hey it might as well be merienda dinner.  Our dinner is Samgyetang 蔘鷄湯 otherwise known as Ginseng Chicken Soup.  Our restaurant is beside a bank.  We stepped out and note how there are many ATMs operating in one branch alone.  The air is very cool and fairly clean.  True to space being of at a premium in Korea, the entrance and stairway is rather narrow.  The restaurant is at the 3rd floor.  The 2nd floor has nothing but a very small men’s toilet.  It’s got 2 doors.  There’s barely enough space to pee and wash hands.  Heck, I think this is the restaurant we went to in this Youtube video:

Samgyetang restaurant

There are restaurants and bakeries that offer foreign recipes.  One is just across the corner of the Samgyetang restaurant.  I can’t recall the name but it is familiar.  Anyway, we go up and enter the restaurant.  Some of these kinds of restaurants only serve nothing but one recipe.  As we sat, our soup is already ready to serve.  Though it’s spring, they serve it all year round.

Img_0588 The restaurant is much cleaner than the others such like it we’ve been through.  Ambience is excellent. You will notice big jars of preserved ginseng several years old.  The soup is boiling.  There is salt to flavor.  We also have ginseng wine.  I drink it.  It’s not sweet, but it’s still good.  Ryneth and Ruby, our felow travellers, pass on the wine, so I dunk it on the soup.  It’s a tough exercise from completely using your hands and just using the chopstick and spoon.  Some Koreans even mix their kimchi, making for a reddish concoction.  The chickens are young and you eat the whole thing.  It’s stuffed with glutinous rice, chestnuts, dates (jujube), and 1 year old ginseng.  I long imagined ginseng to taste kind of like ginger, but it’s actually on the bitter side.  The one-year old ginsengs stuffed are edible and soft.  Bitter, but not too much.

After dinner, we board the bus and head to Myeongdong district where we stay at the Seoul Royal Hotel.  Our friend Ryneth mentioned how she so much wanted to see some performance happening that day, or even watch Nanta or "Jump!".  There are catalogues, maps, information about the city, info on those two plays.  Reading about them, I wish we found a way to book and watch in advance.  Alas, perhaps next time.  If there is a next time.  Our guide, Irene, gives us the keycards to our room.  We and our companions agreed to come out at 6pm to walk around Myeongdong.  The rooms are a bit small.  A bit smaller than Best Western we stayed on our first night.  But we got a TV with access to the US Armed Forces Network, and a pretty hi-tech toilet seat with bidet.  Awesome!